FixCar Won't Start — What It Usually Is, and What It Costs
"Won't start" splits into two different problems: the engine doesn't spin (no-crank), or it spins but won't fire (crank-no-start). Which one you have points at different parts — and the outcomes below show where these visits actually land.
What it actually turns out to be
| The fix involved | Share of visits* | Typical cost† | Median |
|---|---|---|---|
| Car Battery | 23.3% | $140 – $314 | $206 |
| Starter | 21.9% | $267 – $494 | $370 |
| Fuel Pump | 17.3% | $380 – $829 | $600 |
| Fuel Filter | 13.0% | $134 – $436 | $256 |
| Spark Plugs | 7.8% | $170 – $474 | $296 |
| Sensor | 6.4% | $180 – $433 | $287 |
| Distributor | 5.1% | $242 – $533 | $388 |
| Alternator | 5.1% | $302 – $563 | $414 |
| Module / Actuator | 4.8% | $254 – $696 | $413 |
| Other, rarer causes | smaller shares | varies | — |
*Share of visits whose repair involved this part. Combined repairs count toward each
part involved, so shares overlap and don't add up to 100%. Among visits that ended in a parts repair.
†Middle half of real invoices (25th–75th percentile) when this was the only fix — parts + labor, all vehicle types.
Specific versions of this problem
Some flavors of this complaint point at different parts — each of these pages has its own odds and real repair reports:
Real repair reports
These are recent, paid visits for this complaint — the words as the owner said them, and what it turned out to be.
Car owners said
“Check for intermittent no start”
“Diagnose no start..tow in”
“No crank no start”
“Check no start condition”
“No start, just clicks”
“Engine cranks but will not start”
What the technician found
“When it happens it only clicks. eventually it stopped doing anything,”
“To diagnose and replace faulty fuel pump control module”
“Customer states the vehicle will not turn over and will not start, please inspect and advise. Upon inspection found the starter is faulty.”
“**WHEN CRANKING NO NOISE** Run Scan on system no codes due to low battery ,readiness have been reset .Test battery and charging system. Battery is 700 CCA tested at 404 CCA Need to replace battery and retest.”
“Recommend starter with intake gasket set. Recommend based on mileage. Spark plugs and fuel service”
“Customer has already installed new battery. No crank.”
Click or silence when you turn the key
A single click or nothing at all is the no-crank family: battery, battery connections, or the starter. If lights and radio are strong but you get one click, suspicion shifts toward the starter — the most common outcome of all no-start visits.
Cranks but won't fire
If the engine spins normally but never catches, it has spark, fuel, or compression missing. The fuel pump is the classic finding — especially if the car dies at highway speed first or starts only sometimes.
Starts sometimes, dead other mornings
Intermittent starting with a jump box in your trunk is the battery/charging family. A battery test takes minutes and settles whether it's the battery itself or the alternator failing to recharge it.
Costs by vehicle
- Starter: Ford F-150 · Honda Accord · Ford Taurus
- Car Battery: Ford F-150 · Chevrolet Silverado 1500 · Toyota Camry
- Alternator: Ford F-150 · Toyota Camry · Honda Odyssey
Take this to the shop
The FixDozer Diagnosis Brief puts this page on one printable sheet: what this complaint usually turns out to be, how often, and what each fix should cost — so when the diagnosis comes back, you already know whether the number fits.
Download the Diagnosis Brief (PDF)View it online · Narrow it down for your vehicle